Wednesday, June 15, 2005

Anybody up for a change in career?

Hey everyone,
Thought this was interesting considering this guy was a veterinarian!

American climbing legend decides to retire while still on top

Wednesday, June 15, 2005

By The Associated Press

SEATTLE -- As he reached the peak of his career as one of America's most accomplished mountain climbers, Ed Viesturs figured he'd picked the right time to retire.

"At my age, I think I'm smarter than I've ever been," Viesturs said. "I'm maybe not quite as strong as I've been, but having the smarts and knowing how to function at high altitude compensates for that and that's important."


Viesturs became the first American and 12th climber in history to summit all 14 of the world's mountains higher than 8,000 meters without using bottled oxygen when he reached the summit of 26,545-foot Annapurna in Nepal on May 12.


As he came down, he announced he was turning his back on the sometimes deadly lure of the high peaks to spend more time with wife and three young children.


He doesn't plan any comebacks.


"I have no need or desire to go back to the 8,000 peak again," he said. "Why climb 'em again? There are risks involved. It's obvious. People die in the mountains.


The first person to scale all 14 mountains was Italian Reinhold Messner, who completed the task in 1986 at age 42. Viesturs will be 46 on June 22.


Viesturs says his wife did not pressure him to quit climbing mountains like Annapurna, K2, Shishapangma and Nanga Parbat.


"She's been with me the last 10 8,000 (-meter) peaks," Viesturs said. "She never asked me to quit and she never suggested I quit. But still there's always that question: What if something happens? She had some concerns."


Viesturs isn't done climbing mountains -- just mountains with 8,000 peaks. He doesn't have anything scheduled, but he's looking at some mountains in India and Tibet. And he may even be back on Everest, a mountain he has climbed six times, although he won't be shooting for the summit this time.


Viesturs is leaving as a big-time climber who speaks modestly of his accomplishments.


"No, no way," Viesturs said when asked if he thinks he's the best mountain climber in history. "You know there's a guy, Reinhold Messner, the Italian climber. He was like a mentor or hero to me. I'm not as good as him."


Viesturs earned degrees in zoology and veterinary medicine and worked briefly as a vet before he quit to focus on mountaineering.


He was cautious in tackling Annapurna, known as one of the deadliest of the high peaks. He turned back in 2000 because of bad weather and in 2002 because of avalanches.


He's been fortunate in an endeavor that has claimed many lives. He survived the disastrous 1996 climbing season on Everest, when two close friends died.


"For whatever reason, I was always at the right place at the right time," he said. "We climbed Annapurna and a week later, an Italian climber died where we had climbed. Why did the avalanche occur when he was there rather than when we were there? I have all my fingers and all my toes. None of my teammates were ever injured or killed. Is that luck or planning or being conservative?"




THE PEAKS


Kangchenjunga, 28,169 feet, 1989


Everest, 29,035, 1990


K2, 28,250, 1992


Lhotse, 27,939, 1994


Cho Oyu, 26,750, 1994


Makalu, 27,765, 1995


Gasherbrum II, 26,360, 1995


Gasherbrum I, 26,470, 1995


Broad Peak, 26,400, 1997


Manaslu, 26,758, 1999


Dhaulagiri, 26,794, 1999


Shishapangma, 26,300, 2001


Nanga Parbat, 26,658, 2003


Annapurna, 26,540, 2005


-- The Associated Press

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